Discovering Delights in the Valley
Written by Nawika Sharma
Nigeen Lake, Srinagar
I stayed in Kashmir for a month, it was my first trip to the region and stayed at a beautifully adorned houseboat on Nigeen Lake. While most people prefer the bustling Dal Lake, if you are looking for peace, quiet and charming hosts, this is the place to be.
Srinagar is often celebrated for its tourist attractions, what made the city memorable to me were the culinary delights found in the local bakeries and cafes. They serve some of the best walnut fudge cakes and coconut cookies. Srinagar resides at the crossroads of the old and the contemporary, where the past and the present intertwine. Every bend of the road holds the potential for a new discovery, my days were spent aimlessly roaming around the city, stopping at cafes, discovering hidden nooks and corners that guidebooks or social media failed to mention, or simply sitting and observing people as they went about their daily chores or work.
One particular place I frequented among the numerous bridges in Srinagar was the Zero Bridge (the name fascinated me), an old wooden arch bridge. At the end of this bridge, there was a small café frequented by a young crowd, with friendly staff, coffee and knick-knacks. Many of my evenings were spent there when I felt the need to venture out into a familiar world.
My mornings were spent on the houseboat deck, soaking in the crisp winter sun, with a hot cup of tea, savouring the breathtaking view of the majestic mountains and the graceful Chinar trees. I felt a profound sense of stillness sitting there, it seemed as if time had momentarily paused and the world was at peace.
For breakfast I relished the Kashmiri bread, called as Girda and Tilvor: the desi doughnut, this local delicacy is unique to Kashmir. Most households don’t make breakfast they get this freshly baked bread from the countless small local bakeries spread in their neighbourhood, lather it with butter or jam and eat with a steaming cup of tea.
Each morning near the houseboat, a solitary fisherman sat in a small boat. From dawn till dusk, he remained immersed in his task, seemingly as serene and still as the waters that surrounded him. After a few days, I began to greet him upon his arrival and inquire about his daily catch as he departed in the evenings. Typically, he would return with only one or two fish, but he appeared content with his modest bounty. I often wondered what thoughts occupied his mind as he sat alone in that boat, devoid of phone or other distractions. Had he discovered something that we, caught in the chaos of modern life, were unknowingly chasing after?
This trip to Kashmir was made on a whim. I didn't know much about the place, only what I had heard or seen from others. However, it turned into a journey of serenity, flavors, and contemplation that will forever hold a special place in my heart.